Manufacture of garments, such as slips for girls



2 W. ETHE Aug. 28, 1956 MANUFACTURE OF GARMENTS, SUCH AS SLIPS FOR GIRLS Filed June 22, 1955 INVENTOR.

MAL/AM fW/E 5. 13. BY T @4Q AfiUE/VEV United States Patent William Eth, Bayside, N. Y., assignor to Fairtex Undies, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 22, 1953, Serial No. 363,040

3 Claims. (Cl. 275) This invention relates to the manufacture of garments such as slips for girls.

It is an object of the invention to provide a garment such'as a slip for young girls made by the use of a simple pattern, so designed and associated with the fabric piece from which the diiferent sections are to be cut that elasticity results at the position where it is requisite, and thus the garment may accommodate increased girth as a wearer grows.

The garment is particularly adapted for use by young girls whose waist measurements obviously will increase as they grow even slightly older. It is an object of the invention to provide a slip of this nature for which a simple pattern may be used, with a minimum number of pieces which, when assembled into a garment, accommodate themselves to the increasing girth of a wearer of youthful age. t

It is an object of the invention to provide a method of cutting from a length offabric, pieces for making a'slip ora similar garment whereby substantial bias positioning of the threads results substantially at the entire girth of the waist of the wearer when the pieces are assembled finally into a garment.

It is an object of the invention to provide a garment with a substantially circular skirt portion made up from. a pair of sections of fabric cut from a semicircular pattern, wherein the pattern for each of the sections may be substantially identical, and. wherein substantial saving of material will result from the shaping of the pattern and its association with a length of fabric of standard width.

Other objects of the invention will be set forth hereinafter, or will be apparent from the description and the drawings, in which is illustrated an embodiment exemplifying the invention.

The invention, however, is not intended to be restricted to any particular construction, or any particular arrangement of parts, or any particular application of any such construction or arrangement of parts, or any specific method of operation or use, or any of the various details thereof, even where specifically shown and described herein, as the same may be modified in various particulars, or may be applied in many varied relations, without departing from the spirit and scope of the claimed invention, of which the exemplifying embodiment, herein shown and described, is intended only to be illustrative, and only for the purpose of complying with the requirements of the statutes for disclosure of an operative embodiment, but not to show all the various forms and modifications in which the invention might be embodied.

On the drawings, in which the same reference characters refer to the same parts throughout, and in which is disclosed such a practical construction,

Fig. 1 is a view in perspective, illustrating a garment embodying features of the invention, as it would appear when worn;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the skirt portion of a garment, as completed, embodying features of the invention, showing the association of two sections cut in a manner such "ice that, when united into the single skirt, with an edging of lace or similar material, substantially a complete circle is produced, a portion of the lace edging and of one of the sections being broken away to illustrate details of construction; and

Fig. 3 is a plan View of a length of fabric, illustrating the manner of disposing a repetition of the pattern on such a length of fabric in order to cut the fabric to obtain the bias relationship desired with maximum utilization of the fabric.

On the drawings, a length 10 of fabric is shown laid out with repetitions of markings derived from a pattern 12 prepared on usual pattern paper or the like. According to the skirt 14 to be made by use of this pattern, pattern 12 may be bounded by a pair of semicircular edges 16 and 18 terminating at straight edges 20 which may be in a common diameter of the circles. Edges 16 would be determined by the waist measurement of edge 22 of garment 24 shown on the child in Fig. 1. Likewise, edges 18 would be determined by the length of edges 20 which thus would determine the diameter of the circle in which edges 18 would lie.

Patterns 12, as so laid out, are then disposed on length 10 so that edges 20 assume an angle of approximately 45 to edges 26 of length 10. Extreme economy of material results, especially when a pair of patterns 12, identified as 28 and 30, are positioned, as shown in Fig. 3, with their edges 20 in contact, but only in part. As

shown in Fig. 3, edge 18 of pattern 28 may be tangent to an edge 26 of length 10. Edges 20 of the immediately adjacent patterns 30 would extend to edge 26. Now edge 18 of each pattern 30 may be arranged in tangential relation to edge 18 of pattern 28 and also edge 18 of a pattern 32 in the immediately adjacent line 34 of patterns 32 and 36. It will be noted that the sets 38 of line 40, aside from being substantially mirror images of sets 42 of line 34, are in slightly stepped relationship so that a high degree of fabric utilization may be effected.

Threads 44 of length 10 assume the normal directions indicated at 46, as a result of normal weaving. It is obvious that the angularity of edges 20 as well as the changing angularities of edges 16 thus necessarily provides definite bias in the fabric at edge 22 when a pair of sections 48 are united into skirt 14. Maximum bias will be at the position of the indicators 47.

To make up the garment, a pair of sections 48 derived from cutting length 10 according to pattern 12 are positioned with edges 20 in contiguous relation. A pair 49 of portions of edges 20 are seamed together by any suitable means, such as stitching 50, leaving the other portions 51 open for the time being. A substantially circular edge 52 is formed as the outer edge of the assembled sections 48, but with portions 51 open. A suitable trimming 54 may be applied, if desired, by stitching 53 or the like, commencing at one portion 51 and ending at the other, but still without closing portions 51 together.

Edge 22 is thus formed to provide for attachment of a bodice 56. Bodice 56 may be made of material with a degree of elasticity for cooperation with the elasticity resulting from bias cutting of sections 48. The bodice is attached at edge 22, commencing at one open portion 51 and going around to the other portion. Now a single seam 55 may be sewn to close the bodice together and continue to close portions 51 together, and finally the ends of trimming 54. Skirt 14 is thus fully formed. Suitable supporting means, such as straps 58, may also be provided.

Thus, in a garment adapted for wear by a growing child, provision is made for expansion, without alteration, at the waist portion of the garment in accordance with increasing girth of the body of the wearer. A single pair of fabric sections are required in order to make a skirt.

.3 The method of disposing the patterns upon the basic piece of material effects great economy while automatically resulting in the elasticity derived from cutting on the bias.

Many other changes could be effected in the particular construction, and in the methods of use and construction, and in specific details thereof, hereinbefore set forth, Without substantially departing from the invention intended to be defined herein, the specific description being merely of an embodiment capable of illustrating certain principles of the invention.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

1. In a garment for wear by children such as a slip or the like, the garment comprising a skirt portion and a bodice portion having a continuous bottom edge, the skirt portion being formed from a pair of sections each of which has a pair of substantially concentric semicircular edges of difierent radii and a pair of .substantiallystraight edges substantially along a common diameter of the two semicircles, the straight edges being disposed at an angle to the direction of the weave in the fabric from which the sections are cut, the sections being secured together along the straight edges to form a single continuous top edge for the skirt portion, said top edge being secured to the continuous bottom edge of the bodice portion, the skirt portion flaring away from the secured together continuous top edge of the skirt portion and the bottom edge of the bodice portion to provide a single substantially continuous free bottom edge for the skirt postion.

'2. In a garment for wear by children, such as a slip or the like, the garment comprising a skirt portion and a bodice portion having a continuous bottom edge, the skirt portion being formed from a pair of sections each of which has a pair of substantially concentric semicircular edges of different radii and a pair of substantially straight edges substantially along a common diameter of the two semicircles, the straight edges being disposed at an angle to the direction of the weave in the fabric from which the sections are cut, the sections being secured together along the straight edges to form a single continuous flaring skirt portion, the arcuate edges of the greater radii providing a substantially continuous free edge, the arcuate edges having the lesser radii being secured to said bottom edge of the bodice portion.

3. The process of laying out fabric for cutting to provide pieces for a garment, wherein substantially identical patterns are positioned upon a strip of fabric, each patpublished 1949 by The MacMillan Co., New

tern being bounded by two substantially concentric semicircles and the portions of a common diameter included between the ends of the semicircles, positioning the patterns in pairs with the edges defined by the diameters substantially in contiguity but alternate patterns displaced in the same direction from forming a complete circle, cer tain of the semicircular edges of the patterns being tangent to the edges .of the fabric strip and certain of the semicircular edges being tangent to a plurality of other semicircular edges of other patterns.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 837,966 Schuiling Dec. 11, 1906 935,826 Taylor Oct. 5, 1909 1,443,151 Sieger Jan. 23, 1923 1,747,323 Sadtler Feb. 18, 1930 1,748,772 Hunker Feb. 25, 1930 1,830,819 Wishmeier Nov. 10, 1931 2,170,826 McMaster Aug. 29, 1939 2,188,310 Price Jan. 30, 1940 2,439,128 De Oliensis Apr. 6, 1948 2,534,827 McTammany Dec. 19., 1950 2,598,622 Tolkin May 27, 1952 2,676,326 Kay Apr. 27, 1954 2,685,740 Augustin Aug. 10, 1954 FOREIGN PATENTS 574,649 France Apr. 3, 1924 OTHER REFERENCES Die Design and Diemaking Practice, edited by Franklin D. Jones, published 1941 by the Industrial Press, New York, page 90. (Copy Div. 14.)

, Practical Sheet and Plate Metal Work, by Evan A. Atkins, published 1908 by Whittaker & Co., Fifth Avenue, New York, pages 172 and 173. (Copy Div. 14.)

Technical Drawing, by Frederick E. Giesecke et al., York, page 363. (Copy Div. 66.)

Sheet Metal Workers Instructor, by Reuben H. Warn, published 1.880 by Henry Carey Baird & Co., Philadelphia, plate 5 (opposite page 28), pages 28-29. (Copy in Scientific Library.)

The Practice of Garment-Pattern Making, William H. Hulme, published 1948 by the National Trade Press Drury Lane, London, page 114. (Copy Div. 66.) 

